Capital of Artois

The capital of Artois: Arras has been no stranger to conflict over the centuries. These days it continues to be, not only the administrative centre of the region, but also a religious and military centre.

In the 14th century Arras became renowned for the quality of its tapestries, and the town's name became linked with the article itself - "he was stabbed behind the Arras".

Maximilien de Robespierre was born here in 1758 and studied at the college before continuing on to Paris. He was later to return for a while to take up a law practice before turning his attentions to politics. One of the main architects of The Terror during the French Revolution he was, in 1794, to fall a victim to his own creation.

In the First Battle of the Marne in September 1914 the French army managed to halt the advancing German army's sweep through Belgium into Northern France.

As the war of trenches took hold Arras became an important base for the Allies.

General Barbot and Arras

The town, like Ieper in Belgium, was always just on the front line and earned the name of la ville martyre.

Many of the public buildings were destroyed by the bombardments from both artillery and later by plane and what you see today has been rebuilt.

The most violent battles were fought over the hills to the north of Arras.

In 1915 for the hill of Notre Dame de Lorette and then in 1917 for Vimy Ridge.

The battle for Vimy Ridge in April 1917 was part of the greater battle of Arras launched to the east of the town.

French National Memorial: Notre Dame de Lorette
Canadian Memorial Park: Vimy
The Battle of Arras 1917

The Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) on the Place des Héros (And not the Grand' Place) was destroyed during the war but has been recreated in its original style.

The dominating belfry is 75m high, or 326 steps in real money for those wishing to take in the view. Building had begun in 1463, but it was a century later in 1554 before the work was completed. By comparison the Hôtel de Ville took just four years.

The local Tourist Information Office is situated in an office on the left as you go in and it is open every day except Christmas and the New Year.

Below, in the basement are the underground chambers - the Boves. These can be visited on tours, and give a glimpse of an area used by the British army as a field hospital.

The Boves are still used today by the locals and some sections have even been turned into restaurants.

During the war they were used for sheltering soldiers and afterwards the returning towns people took refuge there whilst they rebuilt their shattered town.

In spring every year floral displays are exhibited in the Boves.

Do not confuse these however with the famous system of tunnels that were dug during the war and stretched out towards the front line.

Wellington Quarry

The Wellington Quarry created by the New Zealand Tunnelling Company can be found just out the Bapaume Road.

Like many town centres in France, Arras is cobbled and the local guide points out that the two main squares provide 17 000 sq m of cobbles for your tyres. Not exactly bicycle friendly and they caused great discomfort to British soldiers marching to war in their hob nailed boots.

Flemish architecture on the Grand' Place

The town's two great squares are quite splendid providing a collection of 155 houses in the Flemish style.

In 1492 Arras had become part of the Spanish Netherlands and this helps explain the style of the architecture. Charles V, who had been born in Gent, inherited the Holy Roman Empire and then the Spanish Empire. By the time of his abdication in favour of his son Philip II (Spanish Armada 1588) almost all of western Europe was ruled by his Hapsburg family.

Charles V is known to the French as Charles Quint and in this form has lent his name to many streets and even a beer.

Arras was only retaken by the French in 1640 at the time of Louis XIII - see the page on the Citadel for more on this.

If visiting the town take in the cathedral, and, if time allows the former Abbaye St-Vaast which like so many of the historic buildings has been restored. It now houses the museum of fine arts (Which like a lot of places in France is closed on Tuesday). The two can be found side by side in the centre of the town.

Not far from the Abbaye near the Theatre is Robespierre's house and on the subject of things revolutionary, Arras claims to have invented the French National Holiday of 14 July. That they managed to celebrate it 6 weeks early they put down to impatience!

Cellier des Arcades

Here in the north of France we drink a lot of beer - wine is for southerners. There is a growing brewing industry in the Region with a number of local firms producing something more interesting than some of the bland blondes that you so often find in bars.

In spring the local breweries produce what is known as a Bière de Mars which in older times would have been the first brew of the season. They are first mentioned in the Annals of Arras in 1394.

The Cellier des Arcades between the two Places is an excellent location to seek out something a bit different. They also sell bar towels, glasses (Every beer should be served in its own glass) and other items.

They have a good stock of beers from the Pas de Calais, Le Nord and Belgium.

They are closed Monday mornings and Sunday afternoons.

The Citadel

Still occupied by the French Army the citadel is steeped in history despite never actually being used in its primary role as a fortress, a reputation which earned her the name of: The Pretty - Useless.

It is situated on the inner ring road to the south west of the town on the Boulevard Charles de Gaulle. Following signs marked Citadelle will take you there.

The Citadel
601e Régiment de Circulation Routière

CWGC Cemetery and Memorial to the Missing

You will find the British Military Cemetery immediately next to the Citadel. There are over 2000 graves here as well as a memorial to the 35 942 missing from the battles for the area.

Turn left at the traffic lights just after the entrance to the citadel for a parking area.

CWGC Cemetery and Memorials

In the centre you will find the memorial to the Flying Services: including the Royal Flying Corps and the Royal Air Force (RNFS, RFC and RAF). The flight of doves on the globe at the top of the memorial, follows the exact path of the sun on Armistice day: 11 November 1918.

Le Mur des Fusillés

Taking the road to the left of the Memorial and round the rear of the citadel you come to the Mur des Fusillés which commemorates over 200 partisans from the various Resistance Groups shot by the Germans from 1941 to 1944.

It acts as a sober counterpoint to our own Memorial.

Mur des Fusillés